"True Travel is not the destination but the journey." My heart backs the idea but my mind, an emotional Brutus, is suggesting this as justification for bungling vacationers. Et tu? A few hours in Maui and I began picking away at the details that would stick with me. the way everything slows down as soon as you step off the plane. the way tourists drive the maui economy. the way a double rainbow arcs down the cliffs beyond hana and disappears. And for ms. fujii at the new york times, the way to travel without a true destination in mind.
Tuesday
5:00am
1) Bound for Maui
Luke and I have to leave makaha if we want to catch our flight. it takes longer to ride the bus from my house to the airport than it does to fly from oahu to maui (30 min.)
8:30am
2) Kahalui Airport
Well we're in Maui. But we don't have a place to stay or a means of getting around. First stop are the rental car booths just outside. The airport seems kind of empty. A few employees meander around. I think we may be beyond help from the airport information centers. enterprise, avis, alamo, sold out. one place has cars that they want to rent me (under 25 years of age) for some exuberant sum which i refuse to pay. ok. it seems there are some buses here. public transportation? perfect. where should we go? Jump on the bus. Alright sure we'll go there. Stop at the K. Mall transit center. i start calling around to hostels and craigslist ads i wrote down before we left. The North Shore Hostel in Wailuku ($25 a night dorm style) looks like our best bet. They have two beds open for tonight!
High Noon
3) Kihei Star Market
Learning to maneuver maui public transportation. looking for a beach and snorkeling. blue skies and sunshine. i think hawaii is beautiful because of color. cruising in 25 passenger mini bus past burnt red dirt moistened green waves blue breeze skies and yellow angel fish sunshine.
9pm
4) England
Luke and I miss the stop on our way back from Lahaina. we spot two guys from our hostel on the bus. they missed the stop too. they are from wakefield, just outside of Leeds. on their world tour. headed to australia and south africa.
Wednesday
7am
5) searching
i'm walking the streets of wailuku. the morning is still brisk. i tear the auto rental pages from a phone book and get a coffee at McDonald's. ($1.85?)
8am
6) desperation
luke and i are frantically dialing every number we have. public transport on maui is limited.
11:30am
7) Rent a Jeep
we end up at a gas station somewhere in kahalui and call the guy to come pick us up. drive up, pull away rusting fence. he isnt' very talkative. sign here and here. old sleepy guard dogs. gas tank empty. passenger side door doesn't open without the key. no roof cover? didn't even think to question. behind the wheel.
High Noon
8) Road to Hana
drive until the sun sets. put on raincoats when the downpour begins. loops and curves and hairpins. locals laugh and speed by. Need to stop at Wai'anapanapa State Park. Meet Johnathan, hitchhiker from oregon, black sand beaches and sprouting coconut. warm passion fruit banana bread from roadside stand. excellent. bamboo forests and waterfalls. the map shows a scratch of a road ahead.
7pm
9) Rainbows
Circle island. desolate and beautiful sunset drive. arching rainbows in the rear view mirror. cliffs edge the road dropping to a rushing blue sea and black rock. cows. beautiful.
11pm
10) fall asleep in the jeep somewhere south of Kihei. wake and watch the honu play. visit Makena beach early for crystal clear waters and near isolation.
Thursday - Saturday...
11) Rain
walk makai from the north shore hostel to Tasty Crust Diner 'world famous pancakes' (big breakfast for two: $18). They are good. reading 'sputnik sweetheart' on the top bunk. german tourists laughing on the balcony. watch "Slum Dog Millionaire" and enjoy.
12) Iao Valley
3 miles Makua from the north shore hostel. start hiking. the rental car was returned long ago. rain forest. the needle. bridges. not as impressive as i thought it might be. a good hike back. Rosa's Cantina in wailuku (great food and prices). snorkeling north of Lahaina on resort beaches. enjoy the reef and the crowds.
13) Paia
How did i describe it? hippies embracing capitalism. you know those chill little towns. where you need money to buy but anyone can look. tourists and good vibes. sometimes it works. makes you wonder where these people all come from. how they end up collecting here, loose change piles up with pretzel crumbs and the vcr remote beneath the couch cushions, lost pockets of the globe. catching rays. drinking tea at the Green Banana Cafe. waiting for the rain to pass. (advertised, organic eco internet cafe) they have nice tables outside. waiting for the bus, waiting for our flight, our last day in maui.
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