Sunday, June 04, 2006

Yellowstone backcountry weekend

In Jackson we sauntered into Albertsons grocery store and immediately lost all sense of direction. It was nearly 40 minutes later when we emerged from the vast store of produce, packeged, frozen, and organic goods (for not only the rich but the hip as well). With us we carried the scant items we purchased; milk, jelly, trail mix, loaf of bread, 4 bannanas, and a 5lb bag of rice. If matt can catch fish (no problem) we eat like kings, on a limited budget, for at least another two or three weekends.
We spent our first friday evening sitting at the kitchen table in the apartment on deer drive. The evening dwindled away as we drooled over recently purchased maps of the area and discussed possible weekend pursuits. early the very next morning found us in Yellowstone National park.
Stopping at the backcountry office we learned more about the valley where we hoped to spend our evening. As soon as we walked through the door of the small brown wooden trailer office we were persuaded to watch a video, most likely made before we were born, about the dangers of the backcountry. bears, bison and thermal activity oh my.
After a lunch of peanut butter and bannanas, we hoisted our packs onto our backs and hit the dusty trail. It was soon discovered i packed too much crap i didn't need, but alas this knowledge arrived too late.
Not a mile into our hike we were confronted with a bison. the very same species continued to force us into arcing circles off the trail for our entire trip. to fully appreciate the rudeness of the bison who will not step to the side of the trail you must first understand that in yellowstone, bison are rarely rare. in fact they abundant in the area we were hiking and tend to use the trails because they are easier walking. The typical yellowstone tourist (later i'll discuss the elitist theory) however, seems to find the bison incredibly interesting and tends to pull off the road at every sighting. it becomes unnerving. we saw a bison hitchhiking on the highway. frankly after the first two or three bison neither matt or i could understand the further fascination. they can be entertaining, but i digress.
Our hike saturday afternoon was somewhere between 8 and 9 miles and quite enjoyable. nearing the top of every ridge we hoped to find a bear on the far side, at a safe distance of course. to our dismay we arrived at the top of every ridge with no bear on the other side. There was only matt and i (we saw no one more than two miles from the road) with heaving chests and sweaty brows sarcastically discussing the effects elevation will have on the pa hiker. feel the burn. our trail began in lamar valley and rose slightly through the valley intersecting with the cache creek trail which we followed until stumbling upon our lovely campsite. we set up our bear bag near a grove of evergreens by the stream, and pitched our tent approx. 100 yds away across the meadow/bog area beneath a tree amongst bison droppings. nearly quaint. completing this task we followed a stream up the side of the mountain and purified water before making our ascent straight up the relatively small mountain. needless to say we were zonked, i dont think i've ever actually used that word before but it was typed, by 7 and fell asleep by 8:30. we intended to awake at 5 but took a nap after the alarm and awoke at 6. we broke camp, ate poptarts, purified more water and hit the ole dusty trail once again.
due to a fire in 1988 that ravenged a large portion of yellowstone most of the trees in lamar valley and along cache creek are downed and lay on the mountain sides like a box of toothpicks dropped by some divine being and never picked up. we were lucky enough to spot a heard of 12 or more mule deer crossing the stream and bounding away up the mountain. we didn't encounter any bears on our return hike but did run into more bison, which we strategically avoided by skirting around them through the downed trees. we figured the bison wouldn't be able to run through the tree trunks but read later they can jump six feet high. i think i may have accidentially ganked a book of yellowstone trivia.
we decided to see the sights and stopped at firehole river hoping for a swim but were disappointed to find the river closed and most likey for good reason judging by the whirlpools and high water. we drove on to old faithful where we sat with the rest of the tourists and waited for the geyser to erupt. while the eruption is impressive and amazing i'd like to be there the day it doesn't errupt. that would be a day. we forgot a camera. sitting on the bench we were situated beside a chubby 10 year old with a digital camera and his grandparents. the jokes and the discussion of the building crowds were less than lovely. to be there alone when the great geyser erupts would be bliss. man and nature in combat far from flash photography, ice cream, and lines of cars. we're elitist and thats just how its going to be. dodging the patron in kakhi pants, brand new hiking shoes and a hawaiian shirt with camera slung around the neck i occasionally wish i were there alone. do i feel like i hold a greater appreciation for the wilderness around me just because i've hiked a bit? maybe. i once had brand new hiking shoes, how am i different? then again maybe its something more. or less. we really shouldn't judge. the people surrounding me could be the most interesting people i'll ever meet. but i never do. so we continue to judge and wish we were there alone. elitist i believe. i'm ok with it. such is life. old faithful was impressive.
we met eric, who is on waitstaff in yellowstone, 40 mintues later and he treated us to a cheap employee dinner that really hit the spot. eric we forgot to pay you. we will. thanks for dinner. visit jackson. eric then joined us in our search of huckelberry springs. the spring is between yellowstone and teton parks behind flagg ranch on grassy lake road. find it; the trail isn't very long at all. huckelberry springs is a hot spring that flows into a larger stream. the spring is damned in places to create warm pools of water that rival yergeys hot tub. the view was beautiful.
thus ends our weekend. tomorrow is work and the arrival of the first guests. we're attempting to do wash at the moment and i think the washer is going to explode. best to all.

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